The Right Iron Temperature for Every Fabric

Scorch marks, shine patches and mysteriously shrunken shirts almost always trace back to the same cause — heat applied faster than the fabric could take it. The fix is not a better iron. It is knowing where each fabric sits on the dial.

Cotton and linen — high heat, plenty of steam

These take full temperature and want moisture. Press while slightly damp, or use generous steam. Linen in particular will not release a crease dry, no matter how long you push the iron across it.

Silk — low heat, reverse side, always a cloth

Silk scorches quickly and shows every mark permanently. Low setting, press from the reverse, and always keep a thin cotton cloth between iron and fabric. Never spray water directly on silk — the droplets leave rings that outlast the crease.

Wool — medium heat, steam, no weight

Wool wants steam and hovering rather than pressure. Pressing down hard flattens the fibre and creates a permanent shine, particularly on suit trousers. Use a pressing cloth and let the steam do the work.

Polyester and blends — low to medium, and keep moving

Synthetics melt. Not metaphorically — the fibre genuinely fuses and glazes. Keep the setting low to medium and the iron moving; a stationary iron on polyester for four seconds is enough to ruin the garment.

Rayon and viscose — low heat, reverse side, dry

Both weaken noticeably when wet and hot, and both water-spot easily. Press dry from the reverse at a low setting.

Embellished, zari and sequin work — reverse only, no direct contact

Sequins melt, zari dulls and flattens, and beadwork cracks. Turn the garment inside out, lay it on a soft towel and press only the plain fabric around the work, never over it.

The general rule

When you are unsure of a fabric, start cooler than you think you need and work up. Under-pressing costs you a second pass. Over-pressing costs you the garment.